After marking and drafting of simple sleeves, now we do simple sleeves cutting and stitching. Believe me, by going through this article even a rookie in tailoring field will make sleeves like a professional one.
For marking and drafting : Simple Sleeves Marking And Drafting
Note : Keep in mind that your fabric is in matching pattern after drafting and before simple sleeves cutting.
Simple Sleeves Cutting :
1. After marking and drafting of simple sleeves, the fabric is in 4 layers, so first cut back sleeve curve and then slant line till half sleeve round.
2. Now open the fabric in 2 layers and do cutting of front sleeve (leaf like) curving. That’s all, this is the simple sleeves cutting.
Simple Sleeves Stitching :
There are two methods of stitching simple sleeves with kurti/blouse/bodices etc.
First Method (Traditional method):
1. After doing fitting stitching of kurti as per your measurement, now on sleeves, mark a point equal to sleeve length + 0.5 inch from the center of sleeve.
2. Measure the remaining cloth lengthwise (generally comes near about 1.5 to 2 inch) and mark a line for folding on right side. After that transfers this line to other sleeve by patting. Double fold this remaining cloth and do temporary stitching on sleeves.
3. Now for joining it to kurti, first we mark on fitting line of kurti on wrong side of sleeve by placing kurti’s armhole 0.5 inch above it. Shoulders joining of kurti must match the center of sleeves and front curve of sleeves matches front arm round of kurti.
4. After that separate kurti and sleeve, and on sleeve mark half sleeve round from the close side at end (wrist hole).
5. Join fitting mark on sleeves and half sleeve round in slant manner. And transfer this slant line on other sleeve by patting. Sew the slant lines.
6. After this sew the sleeves with the kurti matching right to right and front leaf like curve of sleeve with front deep curve of kurti in a round manner. And in the end do hemming of arm hole round and undo temporary stitching.
Traditional Method Of Sleeve Stitching :
Second Method (Stitching Like In Ready Made Suit):
1. After making front and back neck, first join the shoulders of kurti.
2. Now take sleeves and fold 1.5 inch from the bottom as we took 2 inch extra while cutting (o.5 inch for joining with shoulders and 1.5 inch for folding).
3. Mark sleeve center and sew sleeves on both sides of arm hole matching right to right and front leaf like curve of sleeve with front deep curve of kurti.
4. Then fold it (along with kurti’s front and back piece) and mark half arm round and join this mark to fitting line of kurti in slant manner.
5. Darken this chalk mark and transfer it on other sleeve too by patting. Sew both sides chalk mark line i.e starting from half sleeve round till fitting line at hip length mark.
6. Fold bottom and slits of kurti after sewing and at last do hemming and undo temporary stitching.