Simple Blouse garment is usually made from the cut piece fabric. The range of cut piece length is 80 to 100 centimeters (0.8 to 1 meter). Down below there is pattern of simple blouse marking and drafting and how you must cut the blouse pattern from fabric. And also the marking and drafting patterns of apex or pleats.
Simple Blouse Cutting Pattern From Cut Piece Fabric :
Marking Of Pleats/Apexes/Darts In Simple Blouse :
Step By Step Procedure For Marking And Drafting Of Simple Blouse :
1. First, fold the cut piece fabric width wise and now from open one side measure required length + 2 to 2.5 inch lengthwise.
2. From this mark take half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch width wise and draw a line to join both points. Now from the same line take shoulder length to side you had taken blouse length.
3. Then take 0.5 inch to inner side of shoulder length width wise (front sleeve deep curve) and join both marks to upper shoulder mark.
4. Now at shoulder length from open side, mark 1/4 of chest + 2.5 inch (for sewing seam).
5. At waist length from open side, mark 1/4 of waist + 2.5 inch (for sewing seam) leaving 1.5 inch at bottom of fabric for folding.
6. Now join waist marks to chest marks in parallel and slant manner.
7. After that, come at shoulder to shoulder width line and mark half of neck width from open side. And from this point make a 0.5 inch slant line till shoulder length line.
8. Now do front sleeve curving only.
9. Now mark front neck length from neck width and do curving for front neck.
10. Then mark pleats/darts.
How To Insert Darts/Pleats In Simple Blouse
There are 4 different types of darts, which are inserted in following ways –
- 1st pleat – Range is 8.5 to 11 inch lengthwise and 2 to 2.5 inch width wise. The total broadness of this pleat is 0.5 inch. It is inserted on side where hooks and loops strip are stitched.
- 2nd pleat – Range is 10 to 12.5 inch lengthwise and 3 to 4.5 inch width wise. Also called as fitting pleat. Total broadness is up to 1 inch.
- 3rd pleat– For this, measure gap between the tips of two recently marked pleats and from 2nd pleat tip mark resulted gap to opposite side of 1st pleat. Then from side fitting line mark 5.5 to 6 inch and join both points is a slant manner. Broadness of this pleat is 0.5 inch.
- 4th pleat – Take a point on upper side (on sleeve curve) and 2 to 2.5 inch above the tip of 3rd pleat, so that all inner four points make a round “O” like shape in the center. Join the two points and broadness of this pleat is 0.5 inch.
11. Cut front blouse piece and for back piece drafting, place your front blouse piece on remaining fabric from close side and do shallow sleeve back sleeve curving and rest mark alongside front blouse piece.
12. After that draft back neck and do curving of it.
13. In back piece, we only insert fitting pleat i.e 2nd pleat which is described above.
Video Tutorial In Hindi:
Video Tutorial In English :
BUY TAILORING ACCESSORIES HERE :