Puff sleeves adds an attractive and nice look to your kurti or top. In this post we cover the total necessities to make puff sleeves which include drafting, cutting and stitching.
Fabric Needed :
In length – Sleeve’s length + 3 inch
In Width – Minimum fabric needed is equal to (shoulder length + 1 inch) plus (3 to 5 inches for puff)
Drafting Of Puff Sleeves :
1. Keep fabric in 4 layers (length + 3 inch in length) and (shoulder length + 4 to 6 inch in width).
2. Now from open side take 5 inch and mark it lengthwise (range is 5 to 7 inches).
3. Take shoulder length + 1 inch from open side of sleeve width wise, mark it and do curving of sleeves from close part including fabric for puffs also.
4. After that do front sleeve deep curving also.
5. Now at the opposite side from close part take of wrist hole + 1 inch (sewing seam) and mark it.
6. After that join wrist hole mark to upper 5 inch mark in a slant manner as the shape of sleeve.
Cutting Of Puff Sleeves :
1. First cut the slant marked line and then cut back sleeve curving of both sleeves.
2. Now open the sleeve fabric in 2 layers and cut the front sleeve deep curving.
Stitching Of Puff Sleeves :
1. For stitching of puff sleeves, first leave 1 inch for sewing seam on both side of sleeve curving and do temporary stitching.
2. After that, assemble/rack up all bulges or humps at the center by stretching sewn thread from both ends of sleeves. Insert half-half bulges from both sides of sleeves to the center.
3. Measure from the bulge center till outer curve of the sleeve – It must be equal to shoulder length + 2 inch. Because when we attach sleeves to kurti/top, we’ll insert pleats on both sides of sleeves to give a fluffy look.
4. By accumulating bulges at the center, it gives a fluffy look. And now do permanent stitching on it so that they don’t get separated from each other.
5. Non insert pleats on both sides of puff for fixing them properly.
6. After making humps/puffs , just simply stitch your puff sleeves like simple sleeves.
7. Now match the fitting line of top/kurti to the sleeve sewing line and start stitching.
8. While reaching to the humps/bulges insert 1 inch pleat for better finishing and fluffy look. And again insert 1 inch pleat at the end of humps/bulges.
9. Now your puff sleeves top/kurti is ready to wear.