Long Gown Drafting, Cutting And Stitching | Step to step procedure

Long gown is arguably the first choice of women when they look for party wear dresses. There are many types of long gown like sheath, empire waist, mermaid, a-line etc. A long gown can be worn as a prom dress also. Whatever the color whether it is red prom dress, a green prom dress, gold prom dress etc etc, long gown always outshine the other dresses. And here is the good news, you can easily make a long gown at home by just following this step to step procedure. In this post I’m making a green prom dress i.e A-Line long gown and the fabric I’m using is cotton-silk with a lustrous shiny print on it.

To make it understand more easily, let’s divide the whole procedure into 4 parts :
1. Fabric required.
2. Drafting of green prom dress/long gown.
3. Cutting of drafted pattern.
4. Stitching.
We strongly recommend you to go through this post to understand the terms in tailoring- How To Take Body Measurements.

Fabric Required :

For standard measurement 2 meter fabric is sufficient.

Formula to take the required meters of fabric = Double of (total length + 2 inch) + sleeves’ length + 2 inch. [But if you are a bit too healthy then you have to take sleeves length fabric separately.]


Drafting Of Green Prom Dress/Long Gown:

1. First fold the fabric in 4 layers widthwise and take 1/2 of bottom width + 1 inch.

  • example -> Bottom width = 20 inch, then 1/2(half) bottom width = 10 inch.

2. After that put inchtape on top of the fabric and mark all the lengths.

  • shoulder length
  • waist length + 0.5 inch
  • hip length + 0.5 inch
  • total length + 3 inch(sewing seam + folding)

3. Now from top and from closed side, mark half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch width wise.

4. Mark the same measurement(half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch) at shoulder length width wise. Also here take 0.5 less to the inner side, and then join both marks to upper mark.

5. At shoulder length, mark 1/4 of chest + 1 inch from the closed side.

6. Now come to waist length and mark 1/4 of waist + 1 inch from the closed side. After that join chest marks to waist marks in slant manner.

7. At hip length, mark 1/4 of hips + 1 inch. Join hip points to waist point in a curve manner.

8. Now draw a slant line from outer hip mark till half bottom width + 1 inch point(at total length of long gown).

9. After that do armhole curving.

10. Come to the top again, mark 1/2 of neck width width wise and take 0.5 inch mark on shoulder line. Join the two points in a inclined or slant manner.


Cutting Of Long Gown:

1. In cutting, first cut the slant line from neck width till shoulder length line. Then cut back armhole curve pattern till chest outer mark. After that cut waist outer mark and proceed further till the half bottom width at total length of long gown.

2. Now separate both front and back piece. And take front piece(the drafted one) and cut front deep armhole curve.

3. We usually do drafting of sleeves and neck after the cutting of front and back piece. So now, do drafting of neck and sleeves. And then do cutting of sleeves and neck patterns for your gown.

Inserting Zip-

We insert zip at back piece and for this, cut straight from the middle of back neck legnthwise till required length and insert zip in it.



Stitching Of Long Gown:

1. After inserting zip, now match right to right of front and back piece and join/sew shoulders.

2. Now take 2.5 inch wide slant strip and sew it alongside the neck, starting from back neck zip portion leaving a bit fabric for folding till other zip end. Keep in mind- while sewing the slant strip you should pull the strip a bit and keep your gown fabric a bit loose.

3. Fold the strip and sew alongside the neck portion again to achieve excellent finishing.

4. To open a slit, mark a point till calf length and do fitting stitching till that point only. [It is your choice if you want slits on both sides i.e for both legs or just for one leg]. 

5. After that take required total length of your green prom dress/long gown from top(neck) and fold it from bottom.

6. Do finishing sewing of side slits also as we do in kurti or simple kameez.

7. Grab sleeves and simply join them to your gown. Your fancy green prom dress or long gown is ready to wear.


Video Tutorial (IN HINDI) :

Video Tutorial (IN ENGLISH) :

Check Long Gowns Online- JUST CLICK ON IMAGES

Usha

Hello readers, my name is Usha and I'm a full time teacher of tailoring profession. I've been teaching since last 16 years and in year 2016 I've decided to take this online. Thanks to you readers, subscribers and internet for making this happen. Here at ushaseminary I write about drafting, cutting, clothing and fashion :)

2 thoughts on “Long Gown Drafting, Cutting And Stitching | Step to step procedure

  • January 10, 2019 at 11:15 pm
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    Hii very good method of your teaching
    Thanks for sharing, Keep up the good work

    Reply

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