Hopefully, you are here for two reasons, either you really wants to start drafting, cutting and sewing or you really wants to learn the tailoring in the simple way. Well by this article you will truly understand the basic marking or drafting pattern for cutting and sewing of simple kurti or kameez or suit. Keeping in mind that everybody is just a beginner once, so in this article the things are kept simple but the outcome of it is absolutely professional.
This is the basic measurements of a simple kurti or suit :
There are few things that you should keep in mind while drafting your simple suit. In this article we provide you some important tips while marking pattern of simple kurti.
Assumed Measurements :
- Length=42 inch
- Shoulder length=7 inch
( there are two rules of taking shoulder length
1. 1/4 of chest minus 0.5 inch(up to 30 inch chest)
2. maximum 7 inch )
- Waist length=14 inch
- Hip length=24 inch
- Shoulder to shoulder width=11 inch
- Chest/Breast=37 inch
- Waist=33 inch
- Hips=40 inch
- Bottom Width=20 inch
- Front Neck Length=6.5 inch
- Back Neck Length=7 inch
- Neck Width=6 inch
We take extra inches in lengths for hemming and folding and in widths for stitching.
Rule of taking fabric is [double of (total length + 3 inch) + sleeves length + 2 inch].
All the measurements are in proportions (increase and decrease it accordingly).
Match the pattern of the fabric and then start doing drafting.
Steps To Follow For Drafting Of Simple Kurti :
1. Take total length + 3 inch on fabric (double fold), mark it and cut it (i.e 42+3=45 inch).
2. Now cut the fabric from middle width wise and match the pattern of front and back pieces and place it matching right to right.
3. Then in width, fold the fabric equal to bottom width + 1.5 to 2 inch (20+2=22 inch); fabric is in 4 layers now.
4. Now from one end of fabric mark all the lengths, which includes shoulder length (7 inch), waist length + 0.5 inch (14+0.5=14.5 inch), hips length + 0.5 inch (24+0.5=24.5 inch).
5. For marking all widths keeping inch-tape at folded part of fabric.
6. At the top (same end) from the folded side mark width wise half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch (11/2+0.5=6 inch).
7. At shoulder length mark, cross mark it with half of shoulder to shoulder width (6 inch) and mark another point 0.5 inch less than the upper mark (i.e 5.5 inch), and join both points to upper mark (6 inch).
8. Now again at shoulder length, mark 1/4 of chest + 2 inch (37/4=9.25 + 2 = 11.25, mark at 9.25 and 11.25 inch) and extend the width line.
9. Now at waist length, mark 1/4 of waist + 2 inch (33/4=8.25 + 2=10.25, mark at 8.25 and 10.25 inch) and join chest marks to waist marks in a parallel manner.
10. Mark 1/4 of hips + 1.5 inch (40/4=10 + 1.5=11.5, mark 10 and 11.5 inch) at hip length and join these marks to waist marks in a curving manner.
11. At total length, mark half of bottom width + 1.5 to 2 inch (20/2+2=12 inch) and join it with the outer hip mark i.e 11.5 inch.
12. After that at top mark half of neck width (6/2=3 inch) and make a 0.5 inch slant line from this point till shoulder length line.
13. Now mark front neck length and back neck length (6.5 inch & 7 resp.) and cross mark to folded side and make a box for marking of neck pattern.
14. After all this, do simple sleeves drafting and curving.