Today long open jacket is in fashion trend and by this post you can easily understand how to make it at home. We provide you the best shortest and easiest way to make this garment like a professional designer.
Fabric required to make long open jacket = double of (total length + 3 inch) + sleeve length + 2 inch. And we need equal measurement of main net fabric as of lining fabric.
Drafting Of Long Open Jacket :
1. First take the lining fabric because we do drafting of our jacket on it and then cut main fabric accordingly. Fold and place fabric in two layers. We do drafting of front part from open side and back part from closed side.
Drafting of this garment on lining is similar to simple kurti, just you have to leave 0.5 inch fabric from open side for sewing seam. Down below we elaborated the drafting pattern for open jacket.
2. From the top, first mark all the lengths i.e shoulder length, waist length + 1.5 inch, hip length + 1.5 inch and total length + 3 inch.
3. Leaving 0.5 inch (for sewing seam at open side), now at top width wise, mark half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch.
4. Also leave 0.5 inch from open side and then cross mark the same half of shoulder to shoulder width at shoulder length.
5. Then mark 0.5 inch less than half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch width wise at shoulder length (for front armhole deep cutting). Join both marks at shoulder length to the top mark (one line will be straight and other a bit slant).
6. Now at shoulder length, mark 1/4 of chest + 2 inch width wise (leaving 0.5 inch from open side).
7. At waist length, mark 1/4 of waist + 2 inch width wise (leaving 0.5 inch from open side).
8. Now join chest marks to waist marks (inner to inner and outer to outer in slant and parallel manner).
9. After that, at hip length, mark 1/4 of hips + 1.5 inch width wise (leaving 0.5 inch from open side). And now join waist marks to hip marks in a bit curve manner.
10. At total length, mark 1/2 of bottom width + 1.5 inch (leaving 0.5 inch from open side).
11. Join the bottom width mark to outer hip width mark.
12. After this do front and back neck drafting and draw 0.5 inch slant line till shoulder.
13. Do curving for front and back sleeves at armhole region and then do drafting of sleeves on lining fabric.
Cutting Of Long Open Jacket :
1. After drafting, cut the chalk mark starting from neck width mark to shoulder then back sleeve curve at armhole. And then proceed it to cutting of outer chalk mark at chest, waist and hip length till bottom width of jacket.
2. For Back Piece Drafting and Cutting – After cutting the front piece from open side, now fold the remaining lining fabric up to required width and place front piece on it (here exclude 0.5 inch extra we took for front piece drafting). And mark alongside front piece and then cut it.
3. After that remove your back piece and do front arm deep curve cutting.
4. Now do sleeve cutting which we drafted on remaining lining fabric.
5. At last place your net fabric on these front and back piece lining fabric and cut alongside it. Drafting and cutting of long open jacket is complete.