One should master the art of hand stitches in order to construct a beautiful garment. We need to stitch various pieces together with the help of different types of stitches after cutting the cloth.
Stitch- Attaching two or more pieces of cloth with the help of needle and thread, by taking the threaded needle up and down through two pieces of cloth.
There are absolute must rules and principles in tailoring too like any other profession. It is necessary to acknowledge basic stitching before proceeding to make a garment because of some following reasons :
- to make cut pieces of fabric into something productive like beautiful garment one has to attach them with help of stitches.
- we need to hold fabric like nylon cloth, silk etc temporarily to be able to stitch all of them neatly and successfully.
- it gives neat and better finishing
We can follow various methods to do hand stitching for holding or attaching two pieces of fabric.
TYPES OF STITCHES :
First, there are particularly two types of stitches –
- Temporary Stitches
- Permanent Stitches
Temporary Stitches :
Temporary stitches are done to loosely attach two or more pieces of clothes, so that it can be easily removed or opened out after the construction of garment. There are various types of temporary stitches:-
This type of stitching helps to keep slippery fabric in straight line while machine sewing. There are three different types of basting stitches:
- Even Basting- All stitches are of equal length. Take equal quantity of thread for upwards and downwards stitches and at equal distance.
- Uneven Basting- All stitches are at varying distance but of the same length(upwards and downwards).
- Zigzag Basting- The zigzag stitching is used to hold fabric pieces together when the cloth is slippery or you have to attach lining.
Used in the situation where you cannot use pencils or chalks for marking and drafting of fabric. It is sewed in a very loose manner, one stitch is small and the next to is a large one. It is the type of temporary stitches which is removed after the garment is stitched.
Permanent Stitches :
Used in almost every garment making. It can be replaced by simple running sewing, but for better finishing and beauty of garment hemming is the most important stitch. It is nearly invisible on right side of fabric and very less is seen on the wrong side too.
Method– Put single thread in needle and take a single strand of cloth from the turned surface. Now pass the needle through single strand and then through surface of cloth to give a neat edge and better finishing. Used on sleeves, necks, skirts etc.
Similar to simple hemming, though stitches are taken at a little distant from each other. Usually used on slippery fabrics like nylon cloth, silk etc.
Method– Similar to simple hemming but in a lateral position. Used in finishing cuffs, necklines etc.
Stitches taken very close together, usually to finish men’s garments and is considered to be very strong. Stitches are put very close to each other using single thread. By using the method of taking needle in and out the turned in part is effectively stitched in place. Used in finishing garments like shirts, coats etc.
Almost invisible to the naked eye. It must be done with great care to give a neat finish. In this method the turned in part is so closely stitched to the main body of garment so as to take a single strand of thread at a time. Usually used in men’s wears.
It is similar to simple hemming, but in this method instead of taking a straight band of cloth a small edge is rolled between the thumb and forefinger and the stitch is put on inside the surface. Used on fine materials like edges of saris, edges of rills, puff sleeves etc.
This type of hem is used on bias cut cloth. When you need to turn a straight edge on a biased cloth, that is when this stitch come in handy. The method is, put a loose temporary stitch on the required turned amount of cloth. The thread is then pulled a little to give small gathers, these gathers are then spread out and hemmed into place. Used in umbrella frock, when edge of garment is always cut on bias.
Fine Running Stitch–
You can see fine dots of this stitch on the right side of garment. In this method, the needle is taken out from predetermined distance, and place where it comes out determines the point from where a single strand of thread is picked up for the next stitch. The shape of garment must be kept in mind while doing fine running stitch. Usually used in fine materials like edge of saris etc.
Generally this type of stitch is done for setting layers of fabric. The method is put at an angle this stitch resembles a temporary stitch. The first line is taken at a certain angle and in the next line the angle is in opposite direction. Used mainly in coats.
This type of permanent stitching is done on materials where the strands of cloth come out. In this method we use a single thread in needle and is taken out an angle. Stitches are taken at some distance with each other and kept loose. One should keep in mind that thread doesn’t come out while pulling the thread. Used in tricot trousers etc and to keep allowance in garments.
This is done to attach two pieces of fabric together, by using a handmade stitch.
Method– A crease is created on the edge of two pieces of cloth and need to be joined together. A small margin is taken on top and bottom and small stitches taken closely. This is believed to have greater flexibility and strength. Can be easily used on biased cloth and churidar pajamas.